© Copyright 2001 Tracy Pierce

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Before & After Photos

Removing Hair Mats

Novice Grooming

Stripping Diagram

Grooming Links

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Grooming Supplies

There is an old saying: "don't judge a book by its cover". The EXACT same thing can be said about our Cairn Terriers in rescue: that is "don't judge a cairn by its grooming". The physical appearance or grooming that is seen in so many of the photographs of Cairn Terriers who are available for adoption can be greatly improved upon with proper grooming. It is quite easy to learn how to groom a Cairn. The below links, books, video's and articles will give you an excellent feel on proper coat maintenance and general health care.

Before & After Grooming


Bonnie was a slight two year old female who had never been groomed properly. Her coat was incredibly soft and long: almost like cotton candy. Below the top layer of what appeared to be well brushed coat, was layer upon layer of matted coat.

The length and the condition of the coat made Bonnie appear to be a little old lady. Bonnie needed a total strip (all the long dead coat pulled out). Here is the same little female several hours later after all the dead matted coat had been pulled out.

Bonnie before: Click for larger view
Before - Click Here
Bonnie after: Click for larger view
After - Click Here


Duffy is a really handsome boy. Duffy was 'dognapped' and reunited with his rightful owners after a law suit. (It DOES pay to have a dog microchipped!) It took the owners almost a year to locate their dog, and when they got him back, they took the scissors to him, trimming his bangs and the long coat. THEN, they brought him in for grooming.

The dark face you see in the finished photograph is the color that his coat actually was under the dead coat shown in the 'before' photo. Duffy needed a total strip due to dead coat.

Duffy before: Click for larger view
Before - Click Here
Duffy after: Click for larger view
After - Click Here

In BOTH sets of before & after photographs, you will notice how much younger the Cairn looks if properly groomed.

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Hair Mats

Removing Hair Mats
Courtesy of DOG TIP OF THE DAY

Removing Hair Mats -- The Wrong Way

Many types of dog hair seem to mat while the dog is just sitting there, doing nothing. This condition can become so severe that the dog's skin is actually pulled up into the matted hair. Mats can worsen over time, causing sore spots and extreme discomfort for the dog. The quick-fix inclination is to cut across the mat next to the dog's body. Don't do it! At best, you will make an unsightly spot that will take a long time to grow out. At worst, you may cut the dog's skin, causing a wound that requires veterinary attention. And, your dog may hold a grudge.

Removing Hair Mats -- The Right Way

The best way to remove a mat:

Slide the scissors between the dog's body and the mat. Make snips going away from the body and toward the bottom of the mat. On a large mat, several snips will be required. Starting at the point farthest from the skin, comb small sections at a time, working up toward the skin. The whole mat should pull out with a comb. If it is still too tight to pull out, go back and make a few more snips, pointing the scissors away from the skin.

Additional Dog Mat Tips
by Danielle Rackstraw

One area that I can almost assure you will have mats (on even the best groomed dogs) is under the dog's "armpits," and with males around their penis and with females around the vulva area. These are VERY difficult areas to remove mats from because of the sensitivity of these areas and you just can't see or groom this area easily. These tend to be the areas that are more overlooked when brushing or combing a dog. Even the tiny little fine mats, amounting to no more than five or ten hairs, can pull the skin under the dog’s arms and can cause infections from the transfer of bacteria around genital areas. The coat is much finer on the under belly of our breed, therefore, it mats much easier.

If you have tiny little mats under the armpits, feel free to clip these with blunt-nosed scissors. The coat will not be missed there and this is the easiest thing to do with small mats in this area. One of my most frequently used grooming tools is the very small slicker brush. A slicker brush is a brush with hundreds of short little "almost needle" type bristles. These come in various sizes and shapes and they make these specifically for areas such as under arms. I have a small triangular-shaped slicker, which is perfect for these spots. Again, you would use the slicker just like a comb, slightly pressing the slicker to ONE MAT ONLY and pulling quickly. With our dogs, I find that it is easier to hold the dog in my arms, back towards my check, front legs going over my arm, and just brush and pull quickly. This gets the discomfort over with in a matter of seconds. Remember, if you have a dog that gets grumpy on the grooming table, soft muzzle the dog first.

With mats on the tummy area (not the vulva or penis), much depends on the type of coat your dog has, their temperament, and the number and size of their mats. With some dogs, you can go in with a metal comb on the smaller mats and just comb out really fast (with a little tug) and you get the mat. This obviously is limited to the really small mats. On the larger mats, the process above could be used OR if you have dog with a lot of belly coat, feel free to just cut the mat out and then comb to the skin to make sure that you are not leaving a ridge of matted coat close to the skin.

Penis and Vulva Area

These are two tricky spots to remove mats from, for obvious reasons. If there is someone in your household who can help here, this is best. FIRST, ALWAYS use blunt nosed scissors. If you have a dog that allows you to hold it on its back in your lap, have your grooming partner hold the dog on their lap with their rear end towards you (you will be sitting knee to knee). You can then start to gently clip the mats one at a time. BE VERY CAREFUL not to pull the mat up while you are cutting it since this will pull the skin and cause the dog to jump. Just try to hold the mat and clip.

After you have cut off the mats, shorten any other hair in the immediate vicinity. Male dogs and females that tend to have the long 'string' of coat at the end of their 'private parts' should have this clipped short (within a half an inch from the end). Long coat in these areas could help transfer bacteria back into the dogs body and this has caused many a bladder infection. The slicker brush also works great for these areas on really tiny thin mats.

Hair Detangler Products and Bathing

There are many commercial products that are sold to help detangle mats. Remember that when you bathe a Cairn, you will have a softer coat for a short period of time (longer period of time if the coat is soft to start with) and this softer coat once again is subject to matting. ALSO, water tends to 'set' mats and this makes them more difficult to remove. Since Cairns should not be bathed any more often than what is absolutely necessary, I would avoid commercial detanglers if possible.

Preventing Mats

Since Cairn Terriers think that they are big dogs in a small body, this is what you should remember when you purchase grooming tools. Your comb should be a high quality metal Greyhound type comb that is large in size and your pin brush should also look more like it was purchased for a much larger dog. When you brush, use enough pressure to get through the hard outer coat PLUS the undercoat and use long firm strokes.

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The Whys of Grooming
by Curt Whall, SeaJay Cairn Terriers [web site]

Faced with the question of "Why should Cairns be Groomed?" many think it's mostly to make your dog look neat and is probably really necessary only for Show Dogs. The result is that many pet Cairns are not often groomed. Actually there is a lot more to grooming.

What is grooming then? It consists of all those things that we do to promote HEALTH, HYGIENE, and APPEARANCE. Grooming for health entails doing those things necessary to ensure your dog's continued good health and to avoid medical problems. Grooming for hygiene involves steps to prevent your dog from becoming smelly, dirty, and uncomfortable and staining your carpets and furniture. Grooming for appearance is done to give your dog that "Cairnish" look, i.e., to make your pet look like the standard for the breed rather than an undifferentiated pile of hair of uncertain ancestry. This is part of preserving type.

There is a common perception that grooming requires a great deal of time, effort, and skill. This is true for Show Grooming where the ideal is to produce a perfectly sculptured, faultless example of the breed. The amount of time, effort, and skill required to meet the basic goals of health, hygiene, and appearance, however, are far more modest.

This article will examine the things that proper grooming does to meet these goals. You will notice that many of the things done actually fulfill more than one goal. While the following is oriented toward the Cairn, almost all of it applies equally well to West Highland White Terriers and Scottish Terriers.

Nail Clipping

Unclipped toenails grow longer and longer unless your dog wears them down with constant activity on rough terrain. Since many Cairns are house dogs there is no natural wearing going on so the nails will continue to grow. As this happens, they will tend to curve down toward the ground. This forces the front of the foot up and the back down; forcing the dog to walk more and more on its "heels". This causes the Achilles tendons to stretch and strains the muscles of the legs causing painful cramping in the legs and eventual crippling. Just imagine the pain if you had to walk around with blocks of wood strapped to the balls of your feet! If this continues for the long term the dog will display a shuffling walk that may be permanent. In cases of severe neglect, the nails can curve all the way around until they dig into the pads. In this case the dog will not be able to walk at all. Unclipped nails also have an effect upon appearance. The Cairn's jaunty, light-footed walk is a result of its walking well up on its feet; "on its toes" so to speak. The unclipped Cairn, on the other hand. is a plodder. How can you tell if your Cairn's nails are short enough? Listen as it walks across a hard floor. If you hear click, click, click, the nails are too long. Most Cairns hate to have their nails clipped. If you don't want to go through this yourself, have your Vet or Professional Groomer do it. Let the dog hate them instead!

Teeth Cleaning

Just like people, Cairns tend to build up tartar and plaque on their teeth unless regularly cleaned. This will tend to cause gum disease(periodontal disease) and again, just as in people, gum disease is the leading cause of tooth loss in dogs. Dirty teeth also look bad and have an impact upon hygiene. Dirty teeth and gum disease can give your Cairn a breath bad enough to gag a maggot! The most serious results can come from severe periodontal disease causing abscesses and in the most severe cases systemic diseases such as blood poisoning (septicemia) which can be life threatening. While some dogs, like some people, seem to be naturally immune to plaque and tartar buildup, most are prone to some effect. Recent research indicates that 85% of all dogs and cats over four years of age have periodontal disease. Some compulsive chewers of hard rubber and nylon toys tend to keep their teeth well cleaned. Most, however, should have their teeth cleaned when necessary. How do you know if your Cairn needs its teeth cleaned? Look for swelling, redness, yellowing teeth, deposits, and bad breath. Since few Cairns will sit still for a teeth cleaning, very few owners do this themselves. While there are some Professional Groomers who will attempt this, most cleaning is done under sedation or anesthesia by Vets. When your Cairn goes to the Vets for a checkup, make sure that the Vet checks the teeth; many do not. If they need to be cleaned, get it done. This is important! You can help the process of this examination. Most Cairns don't like having people, especially strangers, prying their mouths open and will kick up a fuss when they try. Perhaps this is why many vets neglect this important health check. Accustom your Cairn to regular mouth inspections. Invite your friends and relatives to have a look! You may be considered a little weird but it's worth it. Show Dogs are trained to allow the Judge to examine their bites and are blasé about it. We achieve this by accustoming them to mouth examinations from puppyhood. They all learn the "Show Teeth" command very early.

Expressing the Anal Glands

All dogs have glands on either side of the anus that normally produce scent. Sometimes these glands become impacted and swell up. When this happens your Cairn will act uncomfortable and probably will do a lot of scooting on its bottom on your carpets. The dog will also probably stink since the rotten exudate dammed up in the glands can be pretty rank. When this happens the anal area will probably be reddened and swollen. If you see this condition either your Vet or Groomer can take care of it or you can do it yourself. It's a pretty simple operation. Cover the anus with several thicknesses of toilet paper and squeeze the base of the anus between your thumb and forefinger. You will feel a pop and the TP will have collected a dark secretion. Work the base of the anus with additional squeezes to empty any pockets that you missed the first time. Clean up the anal area with soap and water. Few dogs resent this procedure. After it's done most will give you a look of real gratitude! Warning!! Make sure that the anus is well covered by the TP before you squeeze! If unconfined, this stuff can fly right across the room!

Eliminating or Minimizing Skin Disease

Cairns are more prone to skin problems than are many other breeds. Heightened sensitivity to flea bites, dry skin, bacteria, and clogged pores have all been identified as precipitating factors. While some dogs seem to be blessed with immunity to this, many will show some sign of skin disease; especially in the Summer and more often in the older Cairn.

How do you detect skin diseases? Your dog will do a lot of scratching and/or pulling out of hair on its back and legs. The most common spot for this is on the back and buttocks near the base of the tail. As the condition progresses you will notice reddened areas of skin in the now bare or thinly haired parts. In more severe cases the skin will be broken and will bleed or weep.

What can you do about it? If you take your dog to the Vets, they will prescribe flea dips, flea shampoos, steroid creams and antibiotics. In more severe cases they will give cortisone injections. While all these are effective to a degree and easy to do, they extract their prices on your dog's health, hygiene, and appearance and also on your pocketbook. There is a better way to avoid or minimize skin disease through grooming! Through these techniques, visits to the Vets can be reduced and in many cases eliminated entirely.

Why don't Vets tell you about this? There are probably several reasons. First, many Vets don't know about it. Their training focuses on treating disease through chemical, pharmaceutical, and surgical methods. While they all have good understandings of the anatomy and physiology of these conditions, grooming isn't a hot topic in Veterinary School. Second, grooming takes time and effort and Vets know that most people prefer quick and easy fixes.

In order to understand how grooming promotes healthy skin it is necessary first to understand the growth progression of the Cairn's coat. Unlike most other breeds, the Cairn doesn't shed. Hair growth goes through a progression of healthy new coat, "dying" coat, and onto "dead" or "blown" coat. Hair growth stops when the underlying hair follicle becomes "exhausted". The dead hair remains loosely rooted in the follicle until it is mechanically removed. At this point the follicle goes into a "resting" stage for a period of time before producing a new, healthy hair. The following drawing illustrates these stages.

Stage 1 shows the resting hair follicle. The skin over it is unbroken. Stage 2 shows the growth of a new, healthy hair. This hair is thick, hard, shiny, well pigmented, and solidly rooted. This coat readily sheds dirt and water. As the hair continues to grow the follicle becomes less vigorous leading to stage 3. In stage 3 the base of the hair is thinner, softer, dryer, less well pigmented, and is now weakly rooted. The tip of the hair though retains its thickness which can fool you. On the outside the dog's coat appears to be in good condition even though in reality it is half dead. We call this stage a "dying coat" The weak rooting provides a channel for bacteria to enter the skin and cause skin disease. In stage 4 the hair is eroded to the point that its entire length is crinkled and has lost pigment. We describe a coat like this as "completely dead" or "completely blown". This coat becomes matted and tangled and holds onto dirt, water, dead skin flakes, water, twigs, and practically everything else. In stage 5 the hair has been mechanically removed but still remains tangled in the coat. The follicle, now though, is able to close up and return to the resting stage.

What are the implications of all of this? First, the dog with a healthy stage 2 coat is going to remain cleaner and better smelling than one with a dead coat. It is also resistant to bacterial infection and so less likely to suffer from skin disease. Its shiny, well pigmented coat is far more attractive. This coat then meets all of our three goals of health, hygiene, and appearance. The opposite is true of the blown stage 4 coat. Note that simply clipping the stage 3 and 4 coat doesn't buy you much. You still have a dead coat. Some people think that clipping the coat lightens its color. We now know better than that. All that was done was that the healthier tips were clipped away revealing more of the dead, unpigmented roots underneath.

Not shown in the illustration is the second half of the Cairn's coat. We speak of Cairns as being a "doublecoated" breed. In addition to the outer, or guard, hairs shown above, Cairns have a soft, downy "undercoat" consisting of fine, soft, dull hairs that are much shorter than the guard hairs. There are approximately 3-5 undercoat hairs clustered around each Guard hair. Nature designed the Cairn to have its hard outer coat for protection from weather, the terrain, and its prey and to have its downy undercoat for warmth. The undercoat doesn't cause the same types of problems that a dying outer coat does. Over time the undercoat just becomes thicker and looser and adds to the hygiene problem.

What should you do to maintain your Cairn's healthy coat? For show dogs whose coat is to be maintained in the very best condition we perform a process called "Rolling the Coat". What we do here is go over the entire dog and actually pull out the dead and dying hair. This can be done using either the fingers or a tool called a "stripping knife". These come in left and right-handed models and look like little saws with straight handles. The technique is similar using either method. First secure your dog so that it can't run away or do back flips on you. Leashing them to an overhead ring works well. The dog should not be strung so tightly that it is strangling but it shouldn't be able to wander around either. Next, thoroughly brush and comb the coat to get rid of all the knots and tangles. Then, grip a group of hairs either between the fingers or between a thumb and the teeth of the stripping knife. Pull the hair in the direction in which it naturally lies using enough tension so that the weakly rooted dead hair comes out and the strongly rooted healthy hair stays behind. Be careful to always pull in the direction of the lie of the hair, not against it and always pull smoothly, never jerk the hair. These wouldn't be any more efficient and would just hurt the dog. If you find your fingers or your knife slipping, use bookkeepers rubber fingers or chalk to improve your grip.

By the way, does this hurt the dog? The answer to this is "it depends". Pulling the dead hair off the back and neck of Cairns doesn't hurt them. Your dogs may try to convince you that you are torturing them, but this is just acting. You handle this by adopting an attitude that says "I know what I'm doing. We ARE going to do this, so get used to it". After a while, it doesn't bother them much. When Cairns get older, however, their skin tends to become more sensitive so you have to be a little gentler to get the job done without discomfort. Just pull fewer hairs at a time and do it more slowly. Gently teasing the hair out also helps. Be aware that some parts of the body are more sensitive than others. Cairns are more sensitive the lower that you go on the sides and very sensitive on the belly. Many show Groomers clip the belly hairs rather than pulling them. Just go more slowly and carefully on the sides than you do on the top. This also applies to the head, legs, and the rear around the anus, vagina, and scrotum. Also pulling live, healthy hair is much harder to do than dead hair and greatly increases the dog's discomfort.

To maintain your dog's coat in the very best condition it has to be rolled every 7-10 days. This is a lot of work; more than most people would want or need to do to maintain health, hygiene, and appearance. In fact we only work this hard on the dogs that are actively competing in the show ring. The others get much less on an as-needed basis. Once a month is probably sufficient for most Cairns. Can you hire a professional to roll your dog's coat? No. All professional say that they couldn't make any money doing this even if they were able to work that hard all day. Occasionally you can find a breeder or professional handler who will do this but not very often. If you do, prepare to spend a dollar a minute or more.

If the coat is completely blown, you can take it all off. This is called "stripping the coat". Here, all the outer coat is removed at once so only the undercoat is left. This is a frequently used technique on dogs whose appearance is not a prime consideration.

Although rolling the coat is indisputably the best way to achieve health, hygiene and appearance, what can you do if you simply can't bring yourself to pull hair? First, regular brushing is pretty effective. Begin with a coarse brush such as a metal pin brush. This will work through a lot of the tangles. Go over the whole dog. Next, comb the dog with a coarse comb; working gently through the remaining mats and tangles. Third repeat the process using a fine-toothed comb. Upon completion of this you will have straightened out the tangles, stimulated the skin, and pulled a surprising amount of dead hair. Finally, brush the dog with a fine brush. The Slicker brush which contains a large number of fine wire bristles works well here. This will further stimulate the skin and remove dead flakes and other detritus. A bigger reason for this step, though, is that it is very effective in raking out dead undercoat. Profuse dead undercoat traps a lot of dirt. In removing this you will also notice that your Cairn now has a sleeker, healthier appearance. This is because you have removed the long, dull undercoat that had begun to grow through the outercoat. Next have your dog clipped when the hair gets long and dead. As previously mentioned this is a far cry from the best course to follow, but at least it gets rid of a lot of hair and makes brushing a lot easier. By the way if you send your Cairn to a professional Groomer and get back a dog that looks like a Schnauzer, Westie, or Scottie, go somewhere else. There ARE Groomers who know how a Cairn should look. It's just that they aren't too common.


Bathing your Cairn is something that you should avoid. If you maintain your dog's coat and skin in good condition, it will remain clean and odor-free. Bathing is recommended only when your Cairn rolls in something that can't be brushed out. The reasons for this have to do with the nature of the Cairn's coat and skin and the effect of the chemicals in shampoos upon them. These agents accelerate the natural aging and dying of the coat. They act to dry the skin and damage the hair. This can lead to a vicious cycle. Bathing damages the hair. Damaged hair retains more dirt, oil, and odor. Dirty, smelly dogs need more bathing. And so it goes... If you HAVE to bathe, use a shampoo designed for hard-coated dogs if at all possible. Under NO circumstances should you use a shampoo that contains coat softeners or creme rinses. These only make the problem worse. Note that if your Cairn's coat is naturally soft and/or curly you will probably have to bathe. Fortunately few well-bred Cairns have such problem coats. An effective "quick fix" for a smelly, oily, coat is to mist the coat with either rubbing alcohol or SeaBreeze and then rubbing your dog down with a towel. Nearly instantly, your dog will feel and smell cleaner. Note, however, that this doesn't do any deep cleaning so it is only a temporary measure.

Grooming the Ears

A Cairn's ears are one of its most expressive features. A Cairn whose ears are covered with long, droopy hair loses a lot. Fortunately, grooming the ears for proper appearance is a pretty easy thing to do. The best way is to use your fingertips or a fine stripping knife to pull the long hair off the TOP THIRD ONLY of both ears; both font and back. Hold the base of the ear steady with your other hand as you do this. Cairns don't seem to mind this procedure at all. The hair is pulled very short but not down to the skin. Any rough edges can be then neatend with fine thinning shears or scissors. Thinning shears are better because they don't leave an unnatural, clipped look. Alternatively you can clip the ears with scissors. This is definitely second best, though, because the result is never as smooth and the hair grows out again much faster.

When trimming your Cairn's ears, inspect the ear canal. If you see buildups of dirt or wax, remove it by gently swabbing out the ear with a little mineral oil. Note that unlike the human ear you can't hurt the eardrum by sticking a swab down in it. The Dog's ear canal has a bend in it that prevents you from reaching the drum. You may notice that your Cairn has been shaking its head or rubbing an ear. If so inspect the ear. If it's just dirt or wax buildup you can fix it by cleaning. If the ear is red, swollen, or has blood, pus, or fluid coming out of it, though, that's a job for the Vet.

Grooming the Tail

A Cairn's characteristic look also depends upon the proper appearance of the tail which should be trimmed to cone-shape. Clipping the tail to this shape is not very effective over time because the characteristic shape requires a volume of hair that can only be maintained by healthy hair. The clipped tail gets thinner and thinner as the hair dies and so does the appearance of the tail. The tail should be pulled to maintain its proper shape. This also maintains the health of the underlying skin; an important factor since the tail is one of the areas on a Cairn prone to skin disease.

Eye Care

An important characteristic of the breed is the expressiveness of its eyes. This is a look of alertness and intelligence that is achieved not only through proper eye size, shape, placement, and color, but also through proper grooming. The hair on the forehead should be profuse but not so long that it droops down and obscures the eyes. Conversely, it should not be so short that the eyes appear to be too prominent and starey. The proper length is that which frames and enhances the expressiveness of the eyes. This is usually a length where the forehead hair is long enough to curve a bit forward but not to droop down. Similarly, the hair on the muzzle and between the eyes should be trimmed so that the eyes aren't obscured. The best way to do all this is to hold your Cairn's chin whiskers firmly between the fingers of one hand and carefully pull overlong hairs with the other. Your Cairn won't like this. Trimming with fine thinning shears works pretty effectively here but doesn't look as good nor does it last as long.

Use this opportunity to check for other conditions that need attention. It isn't rare to find foreign matter In the eyes that cause discomfort and a dull expression. Remove this by bathing or gently swabbing the eye with a saline solution. You can buy this in the eyecare section of your drug store or make it at home by dissolving l/8th tsp. salt in 8 oz of warm water). Another fairly common condition found at this time is weeping from the tear ducts. This weeping causes a crusty buildup at the inner margins of the eyes that causes discomfort, hair loss, and skin reactions. This should be gently washed off with saline. While this condition is usually caused by a reaction to foreign matter in the eye or by minor colds, it could be a result of a clogged or deformed tear duct. This is a fairly common problem in the small, short-muzzled breeds. If this condition persists, your Vet should be consulted. The most serious condition to check for at this time is "dry eye" (Keratoconjunctivitis Sicca). While pretty rare, it is more common in Cairns than in most other breeds. Here, the eye reduces or stops its production of tears. When this happens, the eye looks dry and dull, and the dogs blinks a lot and tends to avoid bright lights. If untreated, the condition causes great discomfort and corneal ulcerations and always leads to blindness. Unfortunately, even the best treatments aren't always successful.

Grooming the Feet

Grooming the feet rarely has a noticeable impact upon health or hygiene. This is mostly a case of grooming for appearance. The properly groomed foot has the hair trimmed short. This can be done with scissors or a fine stripping knife and is pretty easy to do. The hair on the bottom of the foot that grows between the pads should be clipped with fine scissors. This is one area that has an impact upon the dog's comfort if your Cairn likes to play in the snow. Unless the snow is very dry it will tend to stick to the hair between the pads; forming ice balls that make walking painful. If you see your Cairn stopping frequently in the snow to chew its feet suspect that long hair between the pads is the cause of the problem.


Grooming, then, is much more than just enhancing your Cairn's good looks. It is part of a comprehensive program to maintain its health, hygiene, and distinct breed appearance. A moderate amount of effort on a regular basis can provide large benefits.

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Novice Grooming
by Cyndy Young

As a novice to grooming cairns myself (8 months) I thought it might be helpful for the other novices to hear what has especially helped me with grooming my own dogs. This is not intended for those that wish to show but those that have rescues like mine who present their own problems.

  1. Good stripping knives. I have the fine and course McClellan's which I paid about $20 for both and it was well worth it. I hear that Mars are good also. My first knife was a Twinco from PetSmart and cost about $7. It was a good "practice" knife as it had very wide teeth and so I couldn't do much damage with it. Once you get the good knives that are very sharp you will be amazed at how much more hair comes out at one time and how much more precise you can be with it.
  2. Rubber fingertips. Available in all stationary supply stores. These are great for a quick all over strip as the hairs that are ready to come out seem to stick to them. This is also good for heads if you don't need to do a show quality job. You can go around the head a couple of times pulling on the longer hairs before the 'little darlings' even realize what you are doing.
  3. Stripping stone. This is like a flat square piece of lava. Some people use it for taking out excessive under coats. I find it extremely useful for my females' chest and belly. She is really sensitive here and by laying it flat on her chest and doing long quick strokes I can get a lot of hair off without her even flinching.
  4. Under coats. Both of my dogs have a LOT of undercoat. Too much undercoat (besides making them look like a bear and cause the hair to curl) can impede the growth of the outer coat so it is important to thin it. If you lay the coarse stripping knife flat against the coat and pull towards you, then you get the undercoat and not the outer coat unless the outer coat is really loose. This has really made a difference in how their hair lays.
  5. Slicker brush. This is the brush with all the small pins. This brush will get out the loose under coat and it really helps to smooth out or pull out the tiny mats that can often be found on the inside of the legs and chest before combing or stripping. Although in my opinion once the hairs start to mat then the hair is too long, and this long coat should be pulled out.
  6. Combs. You should also have a wide tooth metal comb and a fine toothed metal comb. The fine tooth especially on the head and legs can pull out a lot of loose hairs just by itself.
  7. Frequency. Whether you do a complete strip twice a year or do touch ups every week is really your choice. If you have a rescue that was never stripped and the coat looks blown (long, listless and dead) then I would do a complete strip so you can start with a fresh coat. This is also a good time to thin the undercoat so the new hairs can grow in healthy.
  8. Puppy grooming. If you have a puppy then I would suggest the weekly touch ups pulling out the hair as it dies so you always have a good healthy coat.
  9. Supply box. You will end up with more tools than you ever thought for these dogs that "don't shed" so get yourself a pretty little box to hold your grooming supplies in and 'grin and bear it'.

I tend to do most of my grooming while they are laying on the bed and I am watching TV so it's a relaxed atmosphere. I hope this helps you a little.

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Stripping Diagram
by Pillan

The following is a diagram for a complete stripping. It will take about 6 months after the stripping for the coat to be in perfect condition. Pillan recommends using the fingers instead of stripping tools.

RED = Strip this area all the way down to the skin. Do NOT save any coat: everything goes!
BLUE = Strip this area 3-4 weeks after the RED area is stripped.
GREEN = Strip this area 3-4 weeks after the BLUE area is stripped.
PINK = Keep this area clean at all times.
ORANGE = The ears; they are kept short at all times.

Blend all the areas together about 3-4 weeks after the GREEN area is stripped, so that you have an even coat.

After this, you can keep the dog in a show coat by grooming one time a month and keep the dog free of any extra hair. Pay special attention to the areas around the shoulders and keep the coat on the head and legs going!

The results...

Paula in Perfect Coat

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Links to Grooming Help

The following links can help with grooming and general Cairn care. Thanks to Ron and Maureen Thomas of Kelcliffe Kennels in Australia for permission to provide the first two links to their site.

General Care & Grooming

Show Grooming

Hand Stripping Wire or Broken Coated Dog - FAQ

How To Dremel Dog Nails

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Grooming Books

Grooming from Start to Finish

A 'must have' grooming booklet that no Cairn owner should be without. This booklet is twenty-eight pages, and measures 5¼ by 8½ inches. It is quite easy to understand: "a picture is worth a thousand words". There are many photographs and great illustrations.

Cost: $10.00; Click HERE to purchase.

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Grooming Supplies

Col. Potter Cairn Rescue Network offers a variety of supplies to help you groom your Cairn. Part of the proceeds from the sale of these items goes to help Cairn Rescue.

See the Grooming Supplies section of our Cairn Merchandise & Supplies store on our CPCRN Shopping Mall to shop for your grooming needs!

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Last Update: 17-October-2007
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Photo © Copyright 2001 Tracy Pierce
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